Using discarded disposable plastic cups to make squirt toys, you can recycle waste and get a pleasant little production experience. Isn't it killing two birds with one stone?
Find two disposable plastic cups and cover them with transparent tape Glue the mouths together, cut off the bottom of the cup, drill small holes in the cup body, pour some water in, and there will be several rows of staggered water flow. If you want some more movement, add There is a small flashlight on the rim of the cup, and the light shines on the fountain. It is very charming. If you don’t believe it, try it.
The body of the robot dog is a square tube made of a groove plate dug out from the bottom, as shown in Figure 1. Drill a 3mm hole on the square pipe as shown in the figure to make the mounting hole. The dog head can be carved with a piece of rubber, and then connected to the dog neck with self-tapping screws. The four dog legs are cut from flat plates of grooved plates, and the movable joints are installed on the dog's body with small screws and nuts. The dog's hind legs have arc-shaped grooves, and the arc-shaped grooves and lateral screws form the limiting device (Figure 1). The dog's tail is slotted into place (Figure 2).
The transmission device of the robot dog is quite special. Both the front and rear feet are cuffed with a pair of "shackles" (Figure 2). A reset elastic band is connected between the front and back "cuffs". The "front cuffs" are made of sheets, and the midpoint is fixed on the dog with screws and nuts. of the anterior chest. In this way, the dog's front feet can only swing back and forth. When moving, the back feet stand on tiptoe while the front feet brush against the ground, thus causing the robot dog to generate forward momentum. The "shackles" are made of iron wire and fastened to the top of the brace extending forward on the upper part of the hind legs. The power directly collides with the wire backward, causing the hind legs to push back, which is converted into forward pushing force.
The power device is installed in the dog's belly. First, make two holes in the middle of the two oval wheels, align the holes crosswise with each other, and put on two elastic bands. Tie both ends of the elastic into the hole in the middle of the dog's body. When debugging, pull the rear legs to the rear so that the iron wire cannot touch the oval wheels. At this time, you can turn the wheels to tighten the rubber bands, and then push the rear legs forward so that the wires block the oval wheels. Then put the dog's feet on the table, let the wire hang down a little, and the two wheels rotate. The wires are hit in turn, causing the two hind legs to produce unequal kicking force. Part of the power is also transmitted to the front legs, causing the four legs to be out of sync. gait. After the robot dog is completed, test and adjust whether the elastic band is reset in time, whether the underbelly wire rises in time, whether the power of the rotor is sufficient, and whether the height is appropriate. Tie elastic bands on both ends of the iron wire under the abdomen to solve the problem of neutral reset when the iron wire is clamped into the cross rotor in time. Pull the elastic band horizontally in the dog's rear body, and use the small bamboo piece as a stumbling block to rub the convex part of the rotor. The rotor decelerates, giving the rotating device time to reset, thereby extending the walking time.