By using disposable plastic cups to make squirt toys, you can recycle waste and have a pleasant little production experience. Isn't it killing two birds with one stone
Finding two disposable plastic cups and a lid? Adhere them with transparent tape. Stick the mouths together, cut the bottom of the cup, drill small holes in the cup body, pour water into it, and there will be several rows of staggered water flow. If you want more movement, add to it. There is a small flashlight on the edge of the cup, and the light shines on the fountain. If you don't believe it, try it.
The body of the robot dog is a square tube made of a grooved plate hollowed out from below, as shown in Figure 1. Drill a 3mm hole on the square pipe as shown in the figure to make the mounting hole. The dog's head can be sculpted with a piece of rubber and then connectedto the dog's neck with self-tapping screws. The dog's four legs are cut from grooved flat plates, and the movable joints are installed on the dog's body using small screws and nuts. The dog's hind legs have arc-shaped grooves, and the arc-shaped grooves and side screws form the limiting device (Figure 1). The dog's tail is put in place (Figure 2).
The robot dog's transmission device is quite special. The front and rear feet are cuffed with a pair of “shackles” (Figure 2). A reset elastic band is connected between the front and rear “cuffs”. The “front cuffs” are made of sheets and the midpoint is fixed. on the dog with screws and nuts from the anterior chest. This way the dog's front legs can only swing back and forth. During activity, the hind legs stand on tiptoes and theFront paws scrape the ground, allowing the robot dog to generate forward momentum. The “shackles” are made of wire and attached to the top of the splint extending forward over the upper part of the hind legs. The power directly collides with the wire backwards, causing the hind legs to recoil, which is converted into forward pushing force.
The electrical device is installed in the dog's belly. First, make two holes in the middle of the two oval wheels, align the holes crosswise with each other and put on two elastic bands. Tie both ends of the rubber band into the hole in the middle of the dog's body. While debugging, pull the rear legs back so the wire cannot touch the oval wheels. At this time, you can turn the wheels to tighten the rubber bands, then push the rear legs forward so that the wires block the oval. wheels. Then put the dog's feet on the table, let the wire hang a little and the two wheels turn. The wire is in turn struck by the wire, causing the two hind legs to generate unequal striking force. Power is also transmitted to the front legs, causing the gait of all four legs to become desynchronized. After the robot dog is completed, test and adjust whether the elastic band is reset in time, whether the belly wire rises over time, whether the rotor power is sufficient, and whether the height is appropriate. Attach elastic bands to both ends of the iron wire under the abdomen, which can solve the problem of neutral reset when the iron wire is tightened into the cross rotor in time. Pull the elastic band horizontally inside the dog's back body and use the small one. piece of bamboo as a stumbling block to rub the convex part of the rotor. The burpor decelerates, giving the rotating device time to reset, thus extending the run time.